Feb. 24-27: Loosing track of time (and days)

Feb. 24th: We stayed the night in El Fuerte and the next morning we caught the 7-9hr (655km) train ride to Creel. The scenery you pass through the mountains to the top of Barranca del Cobre (Copper Canyon) is spectacular. In order for the train to maintain the required 2.5% rate of ascent, they do a loop of 360 degrees inside the canyon. Creel sits an an elevation of 2338m while the canyon is 4 times larger than the Grand Canyon!! The area has a sub tropical climate, while peaks sit high above 2400m with conifers and evergreens. The train stopped once which was when we caught our first glimpse of the local Raramuri people who were on the train side selling their handwoven baskets and crafts. Kiah purchased a basket for $20pesos from the young lady in red on the right (in picture). During the train ride, we passed through mountains covered with many pink blossoming trees; large lakes and winding rivers; deep canyons and steep cliffs; long bridges and small villages; and Trae’s favourite, 87 tunnels. I doubt that any days journey could compare to the views you see from this train as you stick your head out the vestibules between the cars. Kiah and Carrie enjoyed this feeling the most.

When you reach Creel you are surrounded by pine forests and obscure rock formations. There was even a few snow patches in higher areas. We stayed in a family run hotel for $500 pesos/night. It included daily breakfast and dinner. The hotel has a nice courtyard in the middle of it.

The food at the hotel was very traditional. We all tried our best to eat most of it. We had to say no to the chopped soft tortilla covered in hot sauce for breakfast!

While in Creel we took a tour of the Valley of the Frogs, Mushrooms, Monks and Penis’s (all named for the fat, squashed; thin, big headed; and tall, slender rock formations that resemble each respectively). This region is inhabited by the Raramuri, (means those who run fast) the native people of Mexico, many who retain traditions such as living in caves and dressing in colourful skirts and blouses. The poverty is apparent. You will find Raramuri women and children at all the tourist attractions selling their baskets, cloth, necklaces, toys and trinkets. They sit near their crafts, sometimes silently making more, sometimes speaking quietly to each other, but rarely speaking to tourists or even making eye contact.

Some may speak Spanish but I believe that their native languages still prevail. Some of the children had learned to beg (likely due to tourists giving them money) but otherwise their was no pressure to buy their crafts except for the pressure you felt in your heart as you realized how little these people have.

We were able to visit the cave home of a Raramuri home. The cave was home to a family of 10. It had no electricty, no running water, handmade wood heated stove. All have chosen to live in this dark and sloping cave as a choice to continue their long standing traditions. Some other members of the family did reside in nearby Creel.

Feb. 27th: Trevor hired a local guide to take him mountain biking. He was able to rent a bike (Trek 6000 – front suspension). He ended up with the perfect guy. A local 28 yr. old (Enrique) who was Mexico’s top mountain biker for 2 consecutive years. He was able to enjoy single track, steep descents, gruelling uphill's and picturesque scenery. They rode through the mountains for 4 hours, saw more of the remote areas and fought off a few wild dogs. Along the way, they found a few pictographs. Trevor worked pretty hard as he did not know if it was the high altitude, poor physical fitness or a combination of both….perhaps the poor fitness as he thought the hills were tough.

After that we rushed to catch the local bus to Divisadero (1hr ride) to catch a closer look at the canyon. We arrived, took a few pictures and then noticed that the train back to El Fuerte just arrived at the station. We decided to get back on the train and literally ran to catch the moving train back to El Fuerte. (They stopped it for us!) The train ride back was even more beautiful as we got to see the sun setting out one window as the full moon was rising out the other.

We ended up not taking didn’t the road down into the canyon, which is said to be exhilarating which I think means super dangerous in Mexican! The guide books described it as “if you make it down the steep, twisting dirt road to Batopilas…. thrilling ride – from an altitude of 2338m to 495m". Maybe next time. We were finding it exhausting to use our limited Spanish to communicate and were thinking more about getting to the ocean and resting from travelling for a few days. So we decided to get back to base camp and leave in the morning for the beach living. We are now headed to Las Glorias, 4hr drive.

Day 27-31: Beach living at its best

Feb.27-March 3: We arrived outside Las Glorias and went to Mr. Moro campground (46km off of highway) and it felt like a dream come true.   It was exactly what we needed.  Peace and quiet, except for the sound of the ocean. We arrived on Sunday and the RV manager apologized for it being  a busy day at the beach because it was Sunday and the locals were enjoying the ocean.  There were a few people on the beach and riding dune buggies up and down but it was by no means crowded.  Busy?!?!?…only 6 RV’s on site and literally no-one on the beach.  He told us it would be slower on Monday!!!  The RV park/motel is situated on a 4km long sandy beach.  You access it by travelling less than an hour down narrow farming roads.  We walked along the beach in the shallow water and Carrie & the kids danced and skipped though the water.     

Since Sunday we’ve had the beach almost entirely to ourselves.  Trae and Carrie woke up early this first morning and  watched the pelicans and other birds skimming over the waves along the shore.  We got to watch the sun rise in the east as the moon was setting in the west.   Yesterday morning Kiah and Carrie got up early and watched the fishing boats (Yes….Trevor tried his best to sleep in).  Once he woke up, we were treated to a show when a local fishing boat put out it’s net right in front of our spot on the beach.  We watched for about an hour as 6 fishermen pulled in their catch. It was very entertaining and educational for the kids.  The fisherman were very helpful in trying their best to answer questions.   The pelicans and other birds were going nuts.  Soon all the other RV’ers joined us to watch.  The fishermen caught a couple different types of fish as well as Crab, Jelly Fish and Sting Rays.

Yesterday,  Kiah had received a cut on her foot in the shallow water and at first we thought that it may of been broken glass as a few locals were partying on the beach.   Now we believe that a Sting Ray may of been the culprit.   She likely stepped on a small sting ray and it got her with it’s sharp tail.  It bled a lot as it was a small, yet deep cut.  We applied a topical antibiotic and it healed really quickly.  Needless to say her love for the ocean is a little tainted now.  This morning we were treated with yet another show.  The entertainment never stops!  A cluster of dolphins were jumping up right out of the water as they passed our beach. 

We have met many friendly RVérs, mostly Canadians and one couple who brought their camper van over from Belgium and have been traveling in Northern and Central America for two and a half years!  They plan on seeing South America too.  Everyone has shared they’re list of favourite spots with us and we realize their is still so much to see. Unfortunately I don’t think we’ll get to see the monarch butterflies as they will be heading north soon and we think we should stick to the coast before it gets scorching and then head into the interior later.  It is fascinating by how 3-5 generations of butterflies later, the monarchs arrive back in the same place in Mexico after their migration to Canada.  The more places we go and the more reading we do the more we realize how diverse and vast Mexico is.  We are disappointed we can’t see it all!