Feb. 24-27: Loosing track of time (and days)

Feb. 24th: We stayed the night in El Fuerte and the next morning we caught the 7-9hr (655km) train ride to Creel. The scenery you pass through the mountains to the top of Barranca del Cobre (Copper Canyon) is spectacular. In order for the train to maintain the required 2.5% rate of ascent, they do a loop of 360 degrees inside the canyon. Creel sits an an elevation of 2338m while the canyon is 4 times larger than the Grand Canyon!! The area has a sub tropical climate, while peaks sit high above 2400m with conifers and evergreens. The train stopped once which was when we caught our first glimpse of the local Raramuri people who were on the train side selling their handwoven baskets and crafts. Kiah purchased a basket for $20pesos from the young lady in red on the right (in picture). During the train ride, we passed through mountains covered with many pink blossoming trees; large lakes and winding rivers; deep canyons and steep cliffs; long bridges and small villages; and Trae’s favourite, 87 tunnels. I doubt that any days journey could compare to the views you see from this train as you stick your head out the vestibules between the cars. Kiah and Carrie enjoyed this feeling the most.

When you reach Creel you are surrounded by pine forests and obscure rock formations. There was even a few snow patches in higher areas. We stayed in a family run hotel for $500 pesos/night. It included daily breakfast and dinner. The hotel has a nice courtyard in the middle of it.

The food at the hotel was very traditional. We all tried our best to eat most of it. We had to say no to the chopped soft tortilla covered in hot sauce for breakfast!

While in Creel we took a tour of the Valley of the Frogs, Mushrooms, Monks and Penis’s (all named for the fat, squashed; thin, big headed; and tall, slender rock formations that resemble each respectively). This region is inhabited by the Raramuri, (means those who run fast) the native people of Mexico, many who retain traditions such as living in caves and dressing in colourful skirts and blouses. The poverty is apparent. You will find Raramuri women and children at all the tourist attractions selling their baskets, cloth, necklaces, toys and trinkets. They sit near their crafts, sometimes silently making more, sometimes speaking quietly to each other, but rarely speaking to tourists or even making eye contact.

Some may speak Spanish but I believe that their native languages still prevail. Some of the children had learned to beg (likely due to tourists giving them money) but otherwise their was no pressure to buy their crafts except for the pressure you felt in your heart as you realized how little these people have.

We were able to visit the cave home of a Raramuri home. The cave was home to a family of 10. It had no electricty, no running water, handmade wood heated stove. All have chosen to live in this dark and sloping cave as a choice to continue their long standing traditions. Some other members of the family did reside in nearby Creel.

Feb. 27th: Trevor hired a local guide to take him mountain biking. He was able to rent a bike (Trek 6000 – front suspension). He ended up with the perfect guy. A local 28 yr. old (Enrique) who was Mexico’s top mountain biker for 2 consecutive years. He was able to enjoy single track, steep descents, gruelling uphill's and picturesque scenery. They rode through the mountains for 4 hours, saw more of the remote areas and fought off a few wild dogs. Along the way, they found a few pictographs. Trevor worked pretty hard as he did not know if it was the high altitude, poor physical fitness or a combination of both….perhaps the poor fitness as he thought the hills were tough.

After that we rushed to catch the local bus to Divisadero (1hr ride) to catch a closer look at the canyon. We arrived, took a few pictures and then noticed that the train back to El Fuerte just arrived at the station. We decided to get back on the train and literally ran to catch the moving train back to El Fuerte. (They stopped it for us!) The train ride back was even more beautiful as we got to see the sun setting out one window as the full moon was rising out the other.

We ended up not taking didn’t the road down into the canyon, which is said to be exhilarating which I think means super dangerous in Mexican! The guide books described it as “if you make it down the steep, twisting dirt road to Batopilas…. thrilling ride – from an altitude of 2338m to 495m". Maybe next time. We were finding it exhausting to use our limited Spanish to communicate and were thinking more about getting to the ocean and resting from travelling for a few days. So we decided to get back to base camp and leave in the morning for the beach living. We are now headed to Las Glorias, 4hr drive.